If I were asked to recommend the single most “Asakusa” spot of all, I would, of course, hesitate. Among the crowded popular haunts, my personal favorites, and the places I frequent, if forced to pick the one that embodies the true essence of Asakusa, I’d inevitably point people toward a place in Kannon-ura—the quiet neighborhood behind the temple. And if we’re talking about the place that best captures the spirit of Kannon-ura, for me, it has to be Ehime (笑ひめ).
To be completely honest, I despise the countless YouTube videos that visit well-known spots like Mizuguchi Shokudo, Yoshikami, Kamiya Bar, or famous places like Imahan and Yonekyu, and pretend that constitutes a proper introduction to Asakusa. Or those videos claiming to have “fully experienced Asakusa” after hopping between two or three bars on Hoppy Street, or bragging about finding a “deep, hidden gem” like Hogeisen (捕鯨船; whaing ship). As if that’s all it takes to understand Asakusa! Don’t get me wrong—I actually like Hogeisen. I love almost all of Asakusa, —yes, I am, quite literally, an ‘Asakusa-phile. But if I’m going out of my way to introduce Asakusa, that’s not what I want people to see.
I’m sure the landlady (Okami) would be bothered if she found out I was writing this, but I hope she’ll forgive me since I’m sharing it quietly, only in an English article.
Unless you dine at a privately-owned small restaurant (koryorinya) in the area called Kannon-ura—sandwiched between Senso-ji Temple and Yoshiwara, away from the bustling Asakusa areas like Kaminarimon-dori, Nakamise-dori, Shin-Nakamise, and Rokku—you cannot say you truly know the real Asakusa. This is a very difficult thing to do, not only for foreigners but also for Japanese people.
Only those who are prepared for that should visit this restaurant. The landlady is a very kind person, but she runs the shop completely by herself and is extremely busy. You must not make her any busier than she already is.
Sometimes, the otoshi (appetizer) comes as a set of three small dishes. I think it’s a clever way to keep customers happy while they wait for their orders.
Ehime’s provincial cuisine—by which I mean regional specialties, particularly ‘B-class gourmet’ staples like jako-ten (minced fish cutlets) and fish sausages—is well worth trying. The sashimi served carpaccio-style is also delicious.
